Womad .


Friday 10th March


It was a warm evening, and I was very excited about attending Womad 2006. If I had had the chance I would have spent my whole weekend here, but finances dictated that Friday evening was all that I was going to attend. I was envious of the people with the ‘all weekend’ wristbands. My red ‘Friday evening only’ one looked sad next to theirs, but I was here and it was 4.30 and I had until midnight. I couldn’t wait!

As I entered the gate, it was like going through a ‘time warp’ or perhaps that should be ‘culture warp’. No ‘Billabong’ or ‘Roxy’ labels here. Everyone was in comfortable, gaily coloured, batiked, tie-dyed or flamboyant clothes, we were anti-nuclear, ‘saving the whales’, ‘saving the rainforests’, boycotting MacDonalds, and declaring ‘Make Poverty History”! These were people who cared about the things that matter, they weren’t being driven by fashion or trends. They were ready to listen to some great alternative music, move their bodies and have some fun. Their outlook was global.

I was surrounded by booths selling wristbands for every cause imaginable, and stalls selling kaftans, belly dancing sashes, happy pants, anti-sweatshop shoes, amazing musical instruments from far off places, things that jingled, things that sparkled, and food from all over the planet. No one was dragging you in to their stall. People were free to wander around, buy if you want. The absence of high pressure selling notable.

A stroll in the other direction led to a ‘healing village’. The massive trees in Botanic Park were decorated with gorgeous lanterns hanging from the branches, lighting the foliage from within, creating a feel of magical calm. It was like a dream.


And then there was the music. I could stay forever and never hear enough. The styles were contrasting yet complimenty to each other. We began with Jalsa Creole, performing their style of ‘Sega’ music originating in Mauritius. Their costumes were vibrant and colourful, their rhythms were addictive. Everyone was up dancing. The girls in the audience were encouraged to ‘shake their bottoms’ like the dancers and shake them they did. From children to ‘Grandmothers’ they were moving to the rhythms. They were feeling the music. It was powerful to watch these people becoming part of the performance.


Some refreshment and it was Sharon Shannon and Friends. The Celtic sounds of Sharon, Jim Murray, Michael McGoldrick and Dezi Donnelly were hypnotic and enchanting. The audience were mesmerised and once again up and moving with the sounds. Darkness was around us now and the various stages where like lit beacons across the park, drawing the revellers towards them, and the entrancing music emanating from them.


Paul Kelly and the Storm Water Boys were performing next on the main stage and what a crowd they drew. Perhaps it was because the crowd was swelling as the evening drew on but everyone around me were enjoying the music. Some tried to stay seated on their beach chairs but the rest of the audience weren’t interested in standing still and soon everyone was on their feet moving to the music. A giant ‘Dancing Sky’ style balloon moved overhead with a girl suspended below. She was dressed in sparkling, belly dancing style clothes and spinning and twirling full of energy and fun. As she dipped towards the crowd, people reached up to her. Her balloon was lit from inside and the glow shone on the dancing girl’s face revealing her brilliant smile. The crowd’s attention to the spectacle was only momentarily drawn from the rhythms pounding out from Paul Kelly and his band. They were called back for an encore, delaying the start for the next performers, waiting patiently on the adjoining stage.


This was to be the highlight of my evening. The wonderful Reggae sounds of Joe Camilleri and Nicky Bomba and The Limestone Project. The crowd throbbed to the enthralling sound of the giant congas, Joe’s Sax and Nicky’s lead guitar. What an amazing sound. I cast my view over the crowd. A middle aged man was clapping out the beat next to his right ear. He was in a world of his own, he was oblivious to others in the crowd. An older lady in a sarong was dancing on her own stage in front of me. She was the main attraction, she was the star, yet she was all alone, she was performing only for herself. Her willingness to let everything go and express her feelings was one of the most powerful images I have of this magical evening.


After this breathtaking performance, we headed off for a drink, but didn’t get too far before we were drawn back by the thunderous sound of the Dohl Foundation. This group of musicians from India and the UK play large, double ended wooden dhol drums. The sound was huge and echoed around the entire Botanic Park. What an amazing sound. I spun on my heel and couldn’t resist being drawn towards them. I could feel the beat inside by body. The throbbing passing through me. To be so close to this sound was captivating and I didn’t want to leave.

The crowd around me as I left were discussing what they would see tomorrow and I was envious of them. But I guess there is always next year. Maybe the ‘leave ‘em wanting more’ feeling enhances the experience.